Wednesday, April 22, 2015

The first few days of Passover 2015 (5775)

We arrived in Israel on March 31 and starting late the next day began to get ready for Passover, cleaning leaven out of Beth's apartment, buying food, etc. I wasted a fair amount of time searching Bnai Brak for deli meat (all they seemed to have at butcher shops and groceries there was fresh and frozen meat) but just outside of Bnai Brak (the image show the boundary with the flags being Ramat Gan and the buildings in Bnai Brak), I found a grocery (about where that image was taken) that had deli (we were not going to be able to cook because there wasn't time to kasher the stuff in the apartment for Passover).
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On April 3 we checked into an apartment in Tel Aviv that was offered by Airbnb. It was near the Opera Hotel (in the background of the second image). We chose this place because it was walking distance to where we were going to have our seder.  

The seder was quite a long one. We didn't get to the main course until after midnight and got to the afikomen a few minutes before 1:00am. As it turned out, Ann hurt her foot coming home from the seder. The image shows the foot a week or so later after it had been injured again. Ultimately this restricted our activities somewhat and Ann saw a doctor and got an x-ray (no fracture) in Tel Aviv on April 12.

Tel Aviv during the beginning of Passover

On the map, our apartment was on Ha Yarkon a bit south of Bograshov. The place where we did the Sedar was a bit north of Dizengoff. Beth and I walked south along the beach one day well off this map to near Jaffa. Another day, I walked way north of this map along the beach.  In the south direction, the apparent ratio of non-Arabs to Arabs decreases but the Arabs never seemed to outnumber the non- Arabs.



One day, Beth and I walked to the Dizengoff mall. We went to get an ankle bandage for Ann. Inside the mall they had a statue of a Predator. I thought it was  pretty cool to do this.



On Bograchov Street, there was a strickly Kosher (Rabbanut approved) place that had kosher for Passover pastries (we bought several eclairs, they were about $4 each). 



The next image shows an ad for Gluten Free Falafel (in Hebrew its "Falafel with no Gluten"). We saw this sign on Dizengoff Street and we saw some of Beth's friends looking at the sign too. 



PhotoThe bottom image, is the kosher certificates for Burger Bar. This shows they used someone other than the Rabbanut of Tel Aviv to certify (or as I would say 'they were under lenient rabbinical supervision). The burger buns were made of matzah meal (Beth said the bun wasn't that good, but having a burger on Passover was a treat nevertheless and anyway, most people don't actually eat a burger for the bun).

Something new on Children's Boulevard in Ramat Gan

These images show the pedestrian mall that runs roughly between Bialik Street and Hertzl Street from Rambam square to near Jabotinsky Street.

 


The first image shows the mall in the daytime.  The toy cars on the right and the kids on the left mean that the boulevard lives up to its name.





The second is from an early evening during the time we were there. 
 








The third shows the same place a week after we left (taken by Beth).

The city changed the color of the lights and put an Israeli flag there 

Presumably this was for Independence Day which was a week or so after we left Israel.

Moving on Up in and around Ramat Gan

 Numerous high rise buildings are going up in Ramat Gan, Tel Aviv and even Bnai Brak.

The first image is a building on Jabotinsky Road in Ramat Gan (Ramat Gan means 'Garden City) but the building is only a few blocks from Bnai Brak. The lack of furniture on the balconies probably means that people haven't moved in yet. The poster on the left is an advertisement for membership in a golf club (I think). There are two flags on the pole. The one on the left is the Ramat Gan flag, the one on the right is the Israel flag.


The second image is of a thirty story residential building just across the street from where Beth lives. In the foreground is Rambam square. 

As we've been visiting Beth the past few years, the building has gotten closer and closer to being occupied but I think (again based on the balcony rule) that it is not quite to the occupancy level.






The final image is taken from Rabbi Akiva street in Bnai Brak. This is the main street of Bnai Brak. You can see the old 1950s type construction on the left. 

A more modern 1990s building containing retail is on the right (it has arches on the street level). However, in the background is a new residential tower a few blocks away. I think it is also in Bnai Brak but not in the 'Haredi' part..


King David Garden in Ramat Gan

Gan HaMelech David (Garden of the King David)) is at one entrance to the Children's boulevard. In a sense it is a continuation of the Children's boulevard.



It's probably no more than an acre or two but mostly linear and about 25%-50% paved pathways.


There are trees and grassy areas (one of the latter is a dog park).



But it is all squeezed together between three intensely retailed streets (Jabotinsky, Hertzl and Bialik).



Images 1 and 3 are different entrances. Image two is a tree in bloom.


In and near Bnai Brak

 B'nai Brak is next to Ramat Gan. It is the 'hometown of Haredim' in Israel. Thus rabbis are heros and people put pictures of rabbis in their home. Hence an art store that sells such pictures is the first image.  Modern day Bnai Brak is the poorest and most densely populated municipality in Israel. 

Unlike other Haredi communities, the religious fervor expresses itself in ways that are not particularly off putting to secular or non Jews.  For example, the sign on the building under construction on Jabotinsky street a few blocks from Rabbi Akiva street says, "Evil Speech: Don't Speak it Here".  Also, when you walk through the town you see plenty of non Haredi people, some dressed in shorts. I boarded the intercity bus to Jerusalem in Bnai Brak and, while women and men generally clustered in different places on the bus, one couple (man and wife I presume) sat together and a number of younger men with no head covering were scattered throughout the bus.  

The sign in the image which is at the border between Ramat Gan and Bnai Brak says, "Bnai Brak in big letters and in smaller cursive letters says, "Blessed are your comings in" which (as my brother Irwin pointed out are the first three words of Deuteronomy 28:6).  This seems to be a friendly invitation to all, religious and secular although in the context of that sentence in Deuteronomy, it might mean to apply only to people (or a society) who obey the law. This is because curses for societal transgression follows that verse.

 Bnai Brak is mentioned in the Bible (Joshua 19:45) as a Canaanite village. It probably meant, 'children of ibrak' or something similar. B'nai Brak also is mentioned in the Passover Hagaddah where scholars, at a seder in Bnai Brak, are retelling the story of the Exodus intently and have to reminded that it is morning and time to pray.  Bnai Brak also appears in a surprising sentence in the Talmud that says that the descendants of Haman (presumably a daughter or grand daughter of Haman converted to Judaism) taught in Bnai Brak (tractate Gitten folio page 57b in the Babylonian Talmud).



Although the building in the last image is in Ramat Gan, it is on the way to Bnai Brak and I passed it several times while walking around. The building houses an organization that does charity work (e.g., delivering baby food to new mothers).

The blue sign on the door says, "House of Good Deeds".




In and about Rambam Square (or is it Bialik Square) in Ramat Gan

We hung out a fair amount in and around Rambam Square.

This was partly because it is only a few feet from Beth's apartment. Also, there are numerous places to shop, sit or eat or walk around. As noted earlier, Children's Boulevard is just off the square and King David Garden is at the end of Children's Boulevard.

The first image shows, the side of the square to the east which is decked out for Independence Day (the banner says, "Independence Day in Ramat Gan).  In the background on the right is the HQ of the Ramat Gan Rabbanut where we went to several minyanim (they have a real Chazon). 

The next image shows the west side of Rambam square. Lots of blue and white banners are hung (color of Israel flag). I don't know the history of why the statue of the deer was placed there. The street on the south border of Rambam Square is Bialik Street (Beth lives at #50 Bialik Street). The statue of Bialik (left of the deer) has a nice fountain in front of it (right of the deer). 

The next image (also shown in a previous post), is taken from the north side of Rambam square and shows the square with the new 30 story 350' residential (I think condo based on the ads) building called Ordeo Tower a.k.a., Migdal Recital baKikar - 'Migdal' is hebrew for tower (the tower of Babel is a Migdal), a Kikar means square). 


The next to final image shows Bialik Street with the new Israel and Ramat Gan flags (the Ramat Gan flags all over the place were not there when we were in Israel a year previously). The trees on Bialik Street are called box or plane or brush trees and they keep the street relatively cool in the summer. In Isaiah 60:13, the prophet mentions three trees. The 2nd of those is thought to be the trees that are now on Bialik Street.

Ramat Gan, Bialik St. by ANATOLI AXELRODThere is a small Chabad house on Bialik stree around the corner from where this final image is taken. Among the places I used to pray with a minyan was the large building in the first image and this Chabad house.  In the large building they had a Chazon and one day he did a 15 to 20 minute counting the Omer with lots of Chazzanut. In the Chabad house, on the 7th day of Passover, they had a Yizkor service that lasted only 3 minutes (no shiur, no recitation of a psalm). Both of these are records in my experience.




In and around other parts of Ramat Gan

 Ramat Gan was founded in 1921 as an agricultural village. A recent estimate (2013) of its population was 150,000. It is about five square miles in area of which about one square mile are comprised of parks.  


The first image is taken from on of those parks, namely the Garden of Abraham which is on a pretty good sized hill. I'm not sure if the Abraham, for which the park is named, is Abraham Krinitzi, the first mayor of Ramat Gan (he was mayor for over 40 years) or Abraham Gordon, an 18th century British Lord who converted to Judaism or another Abraham. However, I got to the hill in time to take a picture of a rainbow (it was the Sunday after the Sabbath after Passover). The rain was still falling on the Judean Hills east of Ramat Gan.


The second image is also taken from the top of the Garden of Abraham hill. It shows a garden in the foreground and the towers of the diamond district of Ramat Gan in the background. The tall round tower is the tallest building in Israel, about 800', and is called the Moshe Aviv Tower (Moshe Aviv was the head of the construction company and he died a few weeks before the building was completed). 




The third image is of some deer in the zoo in Ayalon Park. This park is in easy walking distance of Beth's apartment and I went there several times during our visit. They also had some ostriches and emu (two emu are in the same pen as the deer) and various other animals and attractions.  

The Ayalon River goes through the park. When I went on the Sunday after passover, the river was about twice as wide as when I went during Passover because of the significant rains during the end of Passover.



Also in Ramat Gan but not within easy walking distance is a modern shopping mall. Near the mall is a hardware store that is modeled on the Home Depot template. It is called Home Center, both in English and in Hebrew as seen in the fourth image.

The fifth image shows a new residential tower on Jabotinsky Street with a nice garden in front of it and evidence of lots of retail nearby. Personally, I think its nice to have gardens and ground level retail near high rise residential towers as they give the residents a better experience. 

The sixth image is of a building with nice rounded balconies on Rashi Square. I think the upper floors are residential while a police station is on lower floors. It is on Jabotinsky Street in Ramat Gan. The flag of Israel is obvious and three flags in front of the building are for Israel, Ramat Gan and, I think, the police force. 

PhotoThe seventh image of some ham that is for sale at a grocery on Hertzl street quite near Beth's apartment (this is the only store I found that had ham for sale). 

The word for  ham (Hatzarim - which is plural for pig) is shown in Hebrew but not English. This is perhaps because the customers for ham are mainly Russians and Arab Christians who don't know English well. Note also, that there are many types of ham for sale there.




Air Force Museum in Beersheva

On the Wednesday of Passover, we went to the Air Force Museum in Beersheva. 

We went by train. It was a slow ride as the train stopped a half dozen times between Tel Aviv and Beersheva (there were 2 Beersheva stops). However, the seats were comfortable and it wasn't particularly crowded and (though I didn't bring my computer to test it), the train does seem to have WIFI. The first image is Beth and Ann at the train station is downtown Beersheva. 

 It was relatively hot (the maximum probably was close to 90F) that day (a few days later it was in the mid 50s F in the middle of the day). We took a taxi to the Air Force Museum.  Admission was free that day (intermediate days of Passover) and it was pretty crowded.

The second image is of Beth and Ann in front of a Stratofortress. The Israel Air force acquired two of these for use as transport and surveillance. The one shown in the image was shot down by the Egyptians in the period between the Sinai campaign (1956) and the 7 day war (1967).  A memorial plaque honors the people who died in that event.
   


The third image is of me in a propeller piper type aircraft.  They used these for training and they still fly propeller aircraft (fancier than this) some during air shows every hour or so while the museum is open.   


The fourth image is of a mosquito propeller aircraft. These were a plane most of whose external structure was made of wood. It was used between the War of Independence (1948) and the Sinai campaign (1956) in actual combat. The wood was, however, difficult or impossible to maintain (none of the original wood was recoverable from the remnants of this plane). 

The fifth image shows Beth in front of an attack jet used in the 1970s. The plane may have been used in the Yom Kippur War (1972).  

I'm not sure who placed the design on the front of the plane but it was imaginative and made a nice picture. 

The sixth image shows the remnant of a scud missile. Iraq, under Saddam Hussain fired a number of these at Israel during the first Gulf War (1991). The missile is named Al-Husayn after the dictator himself. 


The seventh image is of Ann and Beth in front of the Kfir jet attack plane (it was then modified to carry air to surface missiles as well as air to air missiles). 

This is a plane that was designed and built by Israel and the Air Force and Israeli industry was, and still is, proud of this accomplishment. The Kfir was used through the 1980s.










Well of Abraham and Back to Tel Aviv



Photo of Abraham\The Well of Abraham in Beersheva has been prettified over the years.



The first image (from the internet) was taken in the early 20th century.



The second one is found on the Well of Abraham Center website.

The story of this well is from the end of Chapter 21 of Genesis but the center has a quite a bit of other Abraham story  material. They tell the stories using a sound and light tunnel.  The procedure is that you take an elevator up two or so floors, then go down ramps hearing and seeing the stories, then down for a 3D 'binding of Isaac' movie, the down again to the well. The well is at street level.

The Visitor's Center scheduled an English version of this for the three of us and for 2 friends of Beth that we chanced to meet on the street near the Center.

 Characters dressed as Abraham and Sarah (an Abraham with a false beard and a young and very pretty Sarah by the way), greeted us at the well itself and gave us some well water (we used 21st century plastic glasses).


 
The third image is of the train approaching us (actually at the Tel Aviv station). There are 6 different tracks at this point as some trains go along the coast, one line goes to and from Jerusalem and one line goes inland to and from Beersheva.


Photo 
The fourth image, taken by Beth using her phone, is Ann and me in the train on the way to Beersheva. We sat on the ground deck but there is actually an upper deck also and rest rooms on both levels. 

  
 
The fifth image shows the Tel Aviv station we used when we returned from Beersheva (there are actually 4 different Tel Aviv stations on this rail line and we used the one that is nearest Ramat Gan. The view in the image is east toward the Ramat Gan commercial center.  

As noted earlier, this day was pretty hot (90F or so) in Beersheva but when we got to Tel Aviv, a westerly breeze had kicked in and it was cooling off.  A few days later it was in the 50sF in Tel Aviv and in the 40sF in Jerusalem with lots of rain.


Some more transportation stuff

 I took an intercity bus from Bnai Brak to Jerusalem (to see the Western Wall) a few days before we left.  Ann was hoping to go but we decided her foot wasn't in good enough condition.  

 
The first image is of a large tunnel being built which will carry the high speed rail line, currently it is scheduled for completion in 2017.  The expectation is that using this line, you will be able to get from Downtown Tel Aviv to Jerusalem in 34 minutes and from Ben Gurion airport to Jerusalem in 28 minutes (the Bnai Brak to Jerusalem bus took about 90 minutes with about a dozen different stops).   

The next four images are of the intra Jerusalem area light rail line (first image, from the System web site, is the map of the system). I could have taken this line from the central bus station in Jerusalem to the old city, but the stop is at the Damascus Gate. It isn't too far from the Western Wall (my destination) but it is confusing to walk through the Old City and I have several times gotten turned around trying to do this.

Speaking of the Damascus Gate, the next image is from near there and shows the first passenger carrying light rail train in 2011 (image from the web).      



The final two images show different perspectives of the Chords bridge (a.k.a., the Bridge of Strings, the Jerusalem Bridge of Strings, the Gesher HaMeitarim). 

The first image of the bridge was apparently taken from the rail line itself (and from the internet).

The bridge is about 1.5 miles (and 5 passenger stops) NW of the border of the old city. The individual steel cables (there are 66 of them) holding the deck are about 500' long and the bridge itself (cables, superstructure, substructure and deck) is about 1500' long and weigh about 4500 tons. This sounds like a lot but the just the cables alone which hold the deck of the east bay part of the Oakland Bay Bridge (also a one tower cable stayed bridge) weigh about that amount (total weight of that bridge, counting structure, connectors and deck, is probably more than 100,000 tons).


The next image shows the bridge as seen from street level (taken by me).  As one can tell, the bridge is a one tower cable stayed bridge. What is even more distinctive (cable stayed bridges are distinctive themselves), is that the tower leans and has two segments at different angles. This was done partly for aesthetics but also because the bridge has a curve and if the there were no leaning cable stay tower, I think it would have required a second tower (short bridges like this with curves in them are also pretty rare).